The Fountain Gemsonic is a late 60's, New Zealand made, valve amplifier. It appears to be similar to a Mullard 10-10 design. The above model is a mark 2?, it has a headphone socket and a mute switch (on the back). The headphone socket replaces the badge that was on the earlier model. It has a very nice sound; smooth, good bass and detailed highs, better than many high priced later transistor models. However it has been refurbished; many carbon resisters had to be replaced as they were either open circuit (it didn't work when I got it) or had increased in value way outside specification, I have also replaced most of the electrolytic capacitors. I haven't modified it as such, just replaced bad parts. The valve lineup: Two pairs ECL 86 outputs, EF86 line, one per channel and EF86 one per channel for the phono section; it's 1960's so it has xtal (crystal) and magnetic inputs that have a preset adjustment on the back. Don't be fooled; Fountain is known as a very budget brand and the later solid state amps are hmmm well...But these Gemsonics, when restored, are second to very few; fantastic sound better than most/many solid state amps costing many times the price, then or now! I love listening to mine and it is very hard to replace, I keep going back to it. The ten watts is plenty, I usually have the volume at around 9 o'clock and with a CD source it's fine, with a turntable it is also usually fine as there is a gain adjustment pot on the back. You may have difficulty matching volume between the aux and phono if you have a low output magnetic cartridge and of course you need a phono amp for moving coil cartridges as you would for many solid state amps. Just a Note: When these have not been restored the output valves (ECL86 x 4 ) will often glow red, some are quick to blame the valves! but it is most likely the carbon composite resistors that have gone way out of specification. Once restored these run fine. If you find the valves glowing very red on the anode, a very large area of the valve, not the filament in the middle (that is meant to be glowing) don't run the amplifier as you will ruin the valves and do more damage. Get the amp looked at; get it repaired and you won't regret it. The example shown below: In place of the speaker screws I have screwed in some banana plug style speaker terminals to make connection easier, they can be removed at anytime and the original screws replaced. I have added photos of the inside of the amp. The carbon composite resistors are the ones that are brown underneath the coloured value bands. Most are 1/2 watt, a few larger ones are 2 watt, replace with quality ones and check the voltage rating as some have nearly 300 volts across them. The mustard coloured capacitors are not electrolytic and don't need replacing they are best quality Philips Polyesters and never (I have never seen a failed one) fail. This one is waiting to be restored (or finished) but is does run and sounds very nice. I started to restore this one and replaced only what was necessary at the time. More capacitors and resistors to replace.